Sell Your Pokémon Card Collection
Binders, shoeboxes, closet finds, estates and everything in between. Mail it in from anywhere in the country or hand it over at one of our Florida booths. You get a free, itemized offer with no obligation — and if you say no, you get your cards back.
Photos are the fastest route: email them straight to nick@sakekittycards.com and we’ll reply with a range. The contact form doesn’t take attachments.
Who this is for
If you are looking at a pile of cards and thinking “I am not typing all of these into a form,” you are in the right place.
You are getting out of the hobby
Years of binders, a few slabs, some sealed you never opened. One offer, one payment, done.
You inherited a collection
You did not build it and you do not know what is in it. We will tell you what is actually valuable before we tell you what we will pay.
You are thinning out
Keep the cards you love, sell the rest. Take store credit and it cycles straight back into something you actually want.
You have bulk, not chase cards
Thousands of commons and uncommons still have a number. We buy unsorted English Pokémon bulk by the pound so you are not sorting it yourself.
First, the honest part: nobody pays market value
Including us. Here is why, so you can judge any offer — ours or anyone else’s — on something better than a gut feeling.
Every offer you get will sit below what the cards would fetch sold individually online. That is not a trick, it is the whole business model. A buyer is paying you today, in one payment, with no fees on your side, no listings to write, no packages to mail and no returns to handle — and then carrying the cost and the months of work of selling those cards one at a time.
So the question is never “is this offer below market?” It always is. The real question is how far below, and can the buyer show you the math? That is why our whole rate ladder is published further down this page instead of being quoted case by case.
If it turns out you would genuinely do better selling a few cards yourself, we will tell you that. On a handful of expensive cards it is often true. On nine hundred cards it almost never is — the per-sale fees and the hours swamp the difference. The full breakdown of dealer percentages is here if you want the numbers behind that.
The four mistakes that cost sellers the most
We see these constantly, and every one of them is avoidable in an afternoon.
Letting the good cards get bulked
The most expensive mistake by far. If a $180 alt art disappears into a 3,000-card bulk count, you were paid about four cents for it. Pull out every holo, full art, alt art, vintage card and slab before anyone quotes you — even the ones you are unsure about. Being wrong about a card costs you nothing. Missing one costs you the card.
Pricing off listings instead of sales
A $600 listing does not mean the card is worth $600. It means one person is asking $600 and nobody has paid it. On a low-volume card, a single fantasy listing can sit at the top of the results for a year. Filter to completed sales. Every serious buyer prices off sold data, so if you price off listings you will think every honest offer is an insult.
Over-grading your own condition
Sellers habitually rate their own cards a full tier high. A card with edge whitening on the back and slightly soft corners is not Near Mint, and on our ladder that is 15% of the value gone at Lightly Played, 30% at Moderately Played. Here is how to read them honestly before you set your expectations.
Shipping badly
Cards that arrive dinged get quoted as dinged cards. A loose stack in a bubble mailer will shift in transit and the corners take it. This is pure avoidable loss — the packing guide covers the method by lot size.
How a collection offer works
Five steps, and you can stop at any of them.
Tell us what you have
Photos of the binder pages, the box, the slabs, the sealed. Rough counts are fine. The more we can see, the tighter the first number is.
We give you a range
Before anything ships, you get an honest range and an explanation of what is driving it. If the range does not interest you, the conversation ends there and it cost you nothing.
Ship it or hand it over
Mail it in following the packing guide, or bring it to a booth. Florida collections large enough to justify it can sometimes be picked up.
We go through it card by card
Everything with real value gets looked up against recent sold data for that exact printing and condition. Bulk gets weighed or counted by category.
Firm offer, then payment
You get the itemized breakdown and the final number. Accept and you are paid the same day. Decline and the collection ships back to you.
What we pay
Published, not negotiated behind a curtain. These are the same rates the card-by-card quote tool uses.
| Market value of the item | Cash | Store credit |
|---|---|---|
| Singles under $100 | 70% | 80% |
| Singles $100 – $499 | 80% | 90% |
| Singles $500 – $999 | 85% | 95% |
| Anything $1,000 and up | 90% | 100% |
| Sealed under $100 | 80% | 90% |
| Sealed $100 – $499 | 83% | 93% |
| Sealed $500 – $999 | 86% | 96% |
| Unsorted bulk, by weight | $1.50 / lb | $2.50 / lb |
Rates are a percentage of the card’s current market value, then adjusted for condition (Near Mint 100% · Lightly Played 85% · Moderately Played 70% · Heavily Played 50% · Damaged 30%). Graded slabs use the singles ladder from $100 up; we don’t buy graded cards worth under $100, because the grading fee already inside the slab costs more than the card. Bulk by weight is English Pokémon only — no basic energy, no jumbo or oversized cards. The full 13-category bulk table lives on the Sell / Trade page.
How you get paid
Cash offers go out by Venmo, PayPal, or Cash App — your pick — the same day we finish going through the lot. We don’t use Zelle. If you take store credit instead, it’s issued as a Square gift card with a unique code you can spend at our booth or online, and credit always pays more than cash on the same cards.
Mail in from anywhere
You do not have to be in Florida. Most of what we buy arrives by mail from all over the country. We review every submission and confirm the offer before you ship anything, so nothing leaves your hands on a guess. Our packing and shipping guide walks through exactly how to pack cards so they arrive in the condition they left in — that guide is the difference between a Near Mint quote and a Lightly Played one.
What a real offer looks like
Use this to judge us as much as anyone else.
- It is itemized. You should see which cards were valued individually, at what value, at what condition, and what rate was applied. One number for 2,000 cards with no breakdown is the warning sign — not the number itself.
- It flags things against the buyer’s own interest. If something in your collection is worth more than we want to pay for it, we say so. We work the same Florida shows every month; word travels faster than any single good deal is worth.
- The percentage scales with value. One flat rate applied to a $5 card and a $900 card is either generous on one end or robbery on the other.
- It is free and reversible. Nothing ships before you agree a number, and if you decline a final offer on cards you already mailed, they come back to you. Ask any buyer that question specifically before you send them anything.
- You are encouraged to get a second offer. Always do. Tell us you are doing it; that is normal and it does not offend anyone who prices honestly.
Cash or store credit?
Credit pays about ten percentage points more than cash on the same cards, and at the top tier it reaches 95% of market value against 85% for cash. The reason is simple: credit stays in the business, so it costs us less to give you.
Which means the decision is not really about the percentage. It is about whether you were going to spend that money on cards anyway. Consolidating a collection and planning to buy something better with the proceeds? Credit is straightforwardly the better deal. Leaving the hobby? Take the cash and do not let a bigger number talk you into a currency you cannot spend.
Get Your Free Offer
Takes about a minute. We reply within 24 hours with a range and an explanation of what is driving it. No obligation, and nothing ships until you have agreed a number.
Collection selling questions
Do I have to list every card to get an offer on a collection?
How big does a collection have to be?
What if the collection has non-Pokémon cards mixed in?
Do you buy collections you have to travel for?
What happens if I do not like the offer?
How many offers should I get?
Should I sort the collection before sending it?
How do you decide what a collection is worth?
Worth reading before you decide
Two guides worth ten minutes if this is your first time selling a collection:
- What percentage of market value do Pokémon dealers pay? — why nobody pays 100%, and what a fair number actually looks like.
- What are my Pokémon cards worth? — how to value a collection yourself before you talk to anyone.
Ready when you are
Send photos and a rough description. We reply within 24 hours, and the offer is free either way.