What Are Your Pokémon Cards Worth?

The honest answer is: what someone recently paid for the same card, in the same condition, in the same printing. Not what it is listed for. Here is how to find that number — with a free tool you can use right now, and a human who will check your work.

Look up your cards free Have us value a collection

Listed price is not value

This is the single biggest thing people get wrong, and it is the reason collections get mis-valued in both directions.

The asking-price trap

Search a card and you will see listings ranging from reasonable to absurd. A listing is one person’s hope. On a card that only sells a few times a month, one optimistic listing can sit at the top of the results for a year and convince everyone the card is worth triple what it is.

What we actually use

Recent completed sales for the exact card — right set, right card number, right printing, right condition. When a card is thin on volume we widen the window rather than lean on a single outlier sale. Graded slabs are priced against sold comps for that specific grade.

The four things that move the number

1

The exact printing

First Edition, Shadowless, Unlimited, reverse holo, promo stamp, a different set with the same art — these are different cards with different values, even though they look almost identical. Getting the printing wrong is the most common valuation error we see.

2

Condition

Near Mint 100% · Lightly Played 85% · Moderately Played 70% · Heavily Played 50% · Damaged 30%. Whitening on the back edges and soft corners are what usually drop a card a tier. Our self-grading guide walks through how to read your own cards.

3

Graded vs raw

A slab prices off its grade, not off the raw card. A PSA 10 of a modern card typically trades around 3× its PSA 9; on vintage the multiple is wider still. A raw card is worth the raw price until somebody has actually graded it.

4

Language and region

Japanese, Chinese and English versions of the same Pokémon are separate markets with separate prices. Japanese print quality means Japanese cards often grade higher, which changes the math on whether to submit them.

Appraise them yourself, free

Our Sell / Trade lookup is a working valuation tool, not a lead form. Search a card by name, set or number — English, Japanese, sealed or graded — pick the condition, and it shows you the current market value it found before it shows you our offer. Use it purely to price your collection and never contact us; that is a completely legitimate use of it.

Open the lookup tool Value it as a graded card

When you want a human to look

Send it to us

Photos and a rough description are enough to start. We reply within 24 hours with what we see, what it is worth, and what we would pay — three separate numbers, deliberately. There is no fee and no obligation.

Send photos for a valuation

Worth a second opinion

Vintage WOTC-era cards, anything you suspect is First Edition or Shadowless, error and miscut cards, sealed product where the seal condition matters, and anything you are not certain is genuine. Those are the cases where a photo to a dealer saves real money.

How to spot a fake

Appraisal questions

Do you charge for an appraisal? +
No. Quotes and valuations are free and carry no obligation to sell. We would rather you know what you have and decide for yourself than guess.
What is the difference between what a card is listed for and what it is worth? +
Anyone can list a card for any price. A listing is an asking price with no buyer attached. What the card is worth is what comparable copies actually sold for recently, in the same condition and the same printing. Those two numbers can be off by multiples on thin-volume cards. We price off sold data, and so should you.
Does condition really change the value that much? +
Yes. On the same card, our condition multipliers run Near Mint 100%, Lightly Played 85%, Moderately Played 70%, Heavily Played 50% and Damaged 30%. On a $400 card that spread is $280.
Can you tell me what a card is worth if I get it graded? +
That is a different question, and it is the one the grading-prep screening answers. A PSA 10 and a PSA 9 of the same modern card typically differ by around 3x; on vintage the gap is wider. But you do not get to pick the grade — that is why screening the card first matters.
Is a formal written appraisal for insurance or probate something you do? +
We give detailed, itemized valuations, and people have used them for estate and insurance purposes. We are card dealers, not a certified appraisal firm, so if you need a document that satisfies a specific legal or insurance requirement, check what that body will accept first.
What information should I send? +
Clear, straight-on photos with the card fully in frame, the set symbol and the card number legible, and a shot of the back and the corners for anything valuable. For a whole collection, photos of binder pages and rough counts are enough to start.

Know before you sell

Free, no obligation, and we will tell you if you should keep it instead.

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